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BACKGROUND

Raspberry Pi computers…   they are used for many DIY projects and are even used in production environments for various roles from IoT (Internet of Things) to network servers of all kinds.  They’re great for small industrial uses as well as IoT applications and the reason why is because they have a small power footprint and no moving parts, making them extremely robust.  The Achilles heel however, is the SD card that is used in them!  Seemingly, there are many accounts abound that tell tales of card corruption which can bring down a RPi based application.

Being a seasoned Linux user, I noticed one thing that may be to blame: growing logs & swap file usage in /var/swap & /var/log.   SD cards have a limited amount of write cycles and when they’re used up, the card will likely need to be binned, and a new one written and replaced.  It seems clear that most of the read/write activity seems to be done in the /var directory and so I figure that a better solution to this problem is to setup a USB drive (SSD or thumbdrive), format it for EXT4, and mount it permanently as /var in /etc/fstab.  This article will explain how to do just that, and by doing so, you will significantly prolong the life of your sd card!  Read on:

SOLUTION

The first thing you will notice when you plug a USB drive into your Pi is that it will most likely be formatted as FAT (we want to change this).  You can see the details of your USB drive by running fdisk -l and viewing the output below:

As you can see, in my example, the USB drive is an 8GB size and is already formatted as a “linux” filesystem, but in many cases you would see FAT or NTFS here.  Our goal is to delete any partitions on the USB and create a new one that looks like this example.   You can use any size drive you want, I recommend 8GB or larger – and larger is always better!

After you have created a single Linux partition on your USB device, you then want to write the changes to the USB and then format it.  In this example, the drive is /dev/sda.  We want to format the first partition so that partition will be /dev/sda1 and so we will issue the following command once we write the partition and close fdisk:

mkfs.ext4 -L var /dev/sda1  NOTE: be SURE you know which device you are about to format!!!   we assume your device will be /dev/sda but it could be different so check when you run fdisk -l.   The format can take a few minutes to a while depending on the size of your USB device, so be patient and wait until you are returned to a prompt.  Once back at the prompt, you will have a formatted EXT4 partition on your USB device, and you will be ready for the next step, copying your /var directory to the USB.

To copy the contents of /var to your USB, become root or use sudo and then mount the USB to a mountpoint.  I suggest we create /mnt/usb and mount to that to keep things simple.   execute:   sudo mount /dev/sda1 /mnt/usb then you will now be ready to move your /var contents to the USB.

To move your /var contents to the USB execute:  mv /var/* /mnt/usb/. NOTE: you may get an error on moving the swapfile, this is OK, do not worry about it.  We need to then check /mnt/usb and verify that all our /var stuff is in there by running ls /mnt/usb  and you should see the same directories and files in there as you did in /var.   You are now ready to setup your USB device as the permanent home for the /var location.  To do this, you need to modify /etc/fstab and add an entry to the file showing the usb device mounted as /var as follows (use your favorite text editor – carefully!):

Once you have the fstab file looking similar to this example, you can then save the file, and reboot your Raspberry Pi.   When the Pi reboots, it will now mount /var to the USB drive and no longer use the SD card for swap or for logs and log rotation.   This will greatly save a huge number of write cycles to your SD card!  After you make this change you can also ensure swapping is turned off by running these commands:

sudo dphys-swapfile swapoff
sudo dphys-swapfile uninstall
sudo update-rc.d dphys-swapfile remove

I hope you find this info useful!

 

TYT-9600 Dual Band DMR Radio

Warbly sounding audio on low TX power issue

BACKGROUND:

A friend of mine purchased 3 TYT 9600 radios and after some time was spent putting in a code plug & testing the radios out, we found something interesting:  The transmit audio on any power setting but HIGH sounded warbly, a characteristic distortion that sounds like a bad trans-code of a digital audio stream.  We confirmed this by listening to the audio via a DV-Mega type hotspot and directly listening to the transmitting radio via the Brandmeister Hoseline.  When the radios were selected to high power however, received audio sounded crisp and clear as FM on our receivers as well as the Hoseline.  We were able to reproduce this on two different repeaters and on more than one talk group.

We took audio samples of the two different scenarios, one with power not set on high and one with power set on high.  You can clearly hear the difference!   Clearly this has to be a bug.  In both instances of this test, the repeaters were local and easily reachable on the lowest power setting.  There was no difference in the audio quality in the first 3 of 4 power levels.  From low, to medium low, to medium, audio had an overly warbly sound.

Audio Sample not on HIGH TX power

Audio Sample on HIGH TX power

If you have a TYT-9600 radio, please try to reproduce this.  Hopefully TYT is aware of, and will be correcting this.  We did note that this problem occurred with shipped firmware as well as TYT’s latest firmware dated 10/16/2017.

Suppose we should write TYT about this: 

UPDATE 10/29/2017:

It appears that this problem is likely related to a reported “slow rise time” problem as documented by Colin Durbridge G4EML.  Read all about it!  After discussing with Colin, it appears TYT have been notified of this finding but have yet to provide acknowledgement or relief to affected MD-9600 owners!  Buyer Beware!

Because I am an active Ham Radio enthusiast, it is hard to pass up the chance to try new things that come out, especially new radios!  My first experience with digital Ham Radio was D-Star, and while D-Star is great and a lot of fun, I *had* to try DMR eventually.  Unlike D-star, in the beginning, it was hard to come by dual band DMR radios, but a lot has changed since the DMR mode has matured in the Ham Radio community.  DMR, has its roots in commercial land mobile communications, typically business, municipal, and public safety services.  The system was initially developed by Motorola and released as TRBO (MotoTurbo).  TRBO allowed the interlinking (via IP networks) of various repeaters and radio systems in the commercial world.  Each system was often referred to as a zone and a zone consisted of one or more channels and/or talk groups.

Enter 2017, and DMR (compatible with TRBO) is now available by many 3rd party OEMs and even in dual band flavors!  My first DMR radio was the TYT MD-390 (A great radio!) but when I first purchased mine, I paid $179 for a UHF only version without GPS!  Definitely cheaper than your average D-Star radio (most D-Star radios average $350).  It is no wonder a lot of Hams flocked to DMR, you could get TWO DMR radios for the price of ONE D-Star radio!  That simple economic fact allowed DMR to explode and now DMR radios are everywhere, and significantly less expensive.

Recently, I purchased a pair of Radioddity GD-77 Dual Band DMR radios from a trusted vendor on Ebay for $169/pair shipped.  The radios are a bit thinner than the ubiquitous MD-390, and upon unboxing them, I soon realized they were decently made and came with the following items in each box (though I ordered a pair, each radio ships individually):

  • Radio
  • 2200mAH battery
  • Programming Software (Windows)
  • Programming Cable (USB)
  • Belt Clip
  • Antenna
  • Manual
  • Drop-in charger
  • Power cord

Everything you need to operate is in the box!  You just need to install the software and figure out how to program the radio, which is not difficult if you are used to doing this sort of thing.  You basically create channels, then zones, add contacts, add channels to zones, and put your DMR ID in the proper field.  For advanced users, you can enable “expert mode” in the programming software by holding down CTRL ALT SHIFT + F11, and then entering this password: DMR961510.

STERN WARNING: It should be noted that the radio does ship with apparently random frequencies programmed by the factory and these frequencies (if used) would put you in serious trouble if used!!!   If you are a Ham, you are advised to program your radio with the proper frequencies before use.  If you are not a licensed Ham, I recommend you use the radio on the MURS frequencies, or (dare I say it) on the FRS frequencies (the ones often used by the popular bubble pack radios frequently available in stores).  DO NOT TRANSMIT ON THE RADIO UNTIL YOU PROGRAM IT TO PROPER FREQUENCIES, OR YOU COULD BE IN SERIOUS TROUBLE!!!!

The radio has a simple display, (I actually like it more than the MD-390 display, as you can read it without the backlight unlike the display on the MD-3X0.  I had my radios programmed in 5 minutes, and was on the air in no time, without reading the manual.  Who needs a manual anyway?  I have two uses for my GD-77 (I am buying 3 more handsets), 1) Ham Radio  2) FRS/MURS for family communications (keeping tabs on my kids as they play in the neighborhood).  In the later use (kiddie comms) one of the great feature of these radios is that:

  • They can use traditional FM mode – makes them compatible with other non-digital (analog) radios commonly available in stores.
  • TWO WAY TEXT MESSAGING! (across a talk group or 1-on-1) – digital mode only.
  • In digital mode, range is slightly increased and there is NO noise or static.
  • In digital mode, eavesdropping is largely eliminated since most MURS/FRS radios use analog FM – BONUS!
  • In digital mode, these radios can make use of optional encryption just by turning it on – eliminating any eavesdropping opportunity – just as private as a cellphone!
  • In digital mode, you can have one or several “Talk Groups” or privately message 1-to-1 – not possible with traditional FM radios.
  • These radios can enable “remote monitor” which lets you command another radio to start transmitting for a preset time interval so that you can listen to nearby sounds, or conversation that is happening near the far unit.  This is FANTASTIC for keeping tabs on your kids!  There’s no visible indication when you “open their mic” and listen in on what’s going on around them!  This allows parents to proactively check-in on their kids!
  • Programmable buttons for quick sending of alerts or activating functions.

Amazon has the GD-77 with prime shipping for $89/radio.  This is perfect if you are an experienced radio user and quite convenient.

PARENTS & SCHOOLS:  I am willing to offer parents a value added service:  you can buy the radios through me, and I can pre-program them to proper frequencies & with some “secure” channels if you wish to buy several as part of a group.  With this option, you can simply unbox and use them.  If interested in this offer, please call 617-651-1492 and ask for John & I’ll be happy to help.  This offer is available to non-commercial & family end users only.   For commercial users, please look up your nearest radio shop/dealer.

 

 

Sonoff: A Versatile WiFi Switch

I have been playing a lot with home automation technologies and the ESP82XX/arduino platform as hardware interfaces to my ever expanding control system. Most of the stuff I’m implemented has been Z-Wave, but though Z-Wave is an excellent technology, it is rather pricey to acquire. Since the ESP8266 & ESP8285 chips have started showing up in some finished electronics, it is now possible, now more than ever, to reprogram these devices with your own custom firmware!

One such device is made by iTead Studio and is called Sonoff. Sonoff allows you to switch an AC load using your mobile device or PC from anywhere via their own cloud. In my home automation implementation, I want as little cloud involvement as possible – to minimize attack risk, and to keep other firms from data mining my habits at home. The only way to do that is to use technologies that allow local control and without cloud reliance. Unmodified, the Sonoff is an excellent device and generally available for $7 per unit. If you don’t mind sharing your usage data with iTead Studio or relying on their cloud infrastructure to operate your device, then there’s no need to modify it – just use it as prescribed.

For those who want total control and privacy, you can easily use 3rd party firmware or write your own! In my case, I wrote my own firmware which enables a simple HTTP interface which can be called by my Domoticz controller or manually. Since I have a VPN connection to my home on a DDNS hostname, I can easily and securely operate any devices from anywhere in the world with no need for an outside 3rd party, right from my mobile. To flash a custom firmware, you will need a few things:

  • Sparkfun FTDI Basic 3.3v USB to Serial interface
  • 5 pin header (to solder into the Sonoff unit)
  • Arduino IDE software – to program the ESP8285 chip in the Sonoff
  • Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron
  • Custom Firmware of your choosing or your own
  • Male to Female Dupont wires to wire the FTDI breakout to the header you’ll install (see diagrams)

*** WARNING *** WARNING *** WARNING ***

This project/information deals with MAINS CONNECTED equipment!  You should NOT attempt to undertake anything described herein unless you are familiar with and confident with working with electricity and electrical safety!  Risk of DEATH, FIRE, ELECTRIC SHOCK, and PROPERTY DAMAGE can result if you are attempt anything described here without being familiar with the concepts and safety herein.   I will not be liable for your use of any of this information should you or someone else be killed or injured.  I implore you to seek qualified and experienced help if you are unfamiliar with or unsure of anything described here.  PLEASE BE SAFE!

Let’s Get Started!

First, you will CAREFULLY disassemble your Sonoff unit and remove the curcuit board inside.  You will notice an unpopulated header where you will solder your 5 pin header to.  This is the programming interface.  (click for larger view)

Once you have soldered on the 5 pin header, you will now connect your FTDI serial breakout to your Sonoff:  (Click for larger view)

Once connected, now you will load your firmware into the IDE and choose the “Generic ESP8285” board and 1M size flash as shown: (click for larger view)

To flash: (NOTE: there is NO WAY to go back to stock firmware!  this is a final operation!!!)

  1. Remove 3.3v lead
  2. Hold down button & reconnect 3.3v lead (at the same time)
  3. Release the button
  4. Flash your firmware

That’s it!  Reassemble your Sonoff switch and your Sonoff should be ready to use!

Here’s my firmware.  You are free to use/modify it.   In my application I wanted the IP hardcoded, but you can easily change this to be DHCP.  I’m currently (at the time of this writing) trying to figure out how to serve the HTTP interface from SPIFFS but not quite there yet so for now, it is hardcoded and functional.

Here’s how mine looks:

Very simple!  You’ll notice that in my code, the switch responds to the URLs of /on and /off which makes it stupid simple to integrate with controllers like Domoticz, Wink, Smartthings, etc:  (click for larger view)

Once you configure this in your controller, you can then operate it as any other part of your system, and even with Amazon Echo (Alexa)!

First Project with the ESP8266 WiFi/MCU Module

The ESP8266 is an inexpensive WiFi-Serial MCU module that allows you to create sensors, switches, or just about any WiFi enabled connectivity for projects.  In my project, I decided to embark on a learning exercise by creating a real time energy threshold monitor to monitor my electricity usage and know when we were experiencing a time of high utilization.  The hope is that by doing so, we become more conscious about how much energy we use and that this can hopefully lead to better habits that reduce our energy costs.

We have a Z-Wave home automation system based on a Raspberry Pi, USB Z-wave stick, and Linux running Domoticz – an open source home automation suite.  Domoticz is a very capable system that lets you tie in a wide variety of control endpoints, data sources, and load switching.  To add the ESP8266 to Domoticz, I had to write some code (firmware) for it using the Arduino IDE (1.8.x) and install the community ESP8266 libraries.  I needed two channels (LEDs) to represent two states; low and high usage.  I used 2 GPIO ports on the module to light an LED (red or green) depending on what Domoticz detected for energy usage.  The interfacing is done as a simple HTTP request to the LED (see code).  In order to do this I had to also create a dummy switch in Domoticz under Hardware and create two separate instances; one for each LED.  

Once I had both virtual devices created, I was then able to see them in the devices list: 

It is a good idea to create a static IP reservation in the DHCP settings of your network, this way, the ESP8266 always comes up with the same IP address on your network: 

Now that we know what the IP address of the module will be, it was easy to assign each virtual switch in Domoticz to each LED (click for larger view):

You can see here how I created the linkage to each LED.  Domoticz makes it easy!  They now show up on the Control Board in the Domoticz web UI:

I still had to have logic in Domoticz to decide when to switch back and forth between red and green LEDs.  Fortunately, it’s easy to do and set that in the Events utility which allows you to build blocky style logic code that makes Domoticz pure magic:  

Here is a LINK TO THE SOURCECODE for the ESP8266 module for this project.  It should help you setup something similar.  These ESP8266 modules are the perfect thing for creating great automation solutions, only limited by your imagination!  Let me know how you use them in your project!  I plan to transfer my module into a decorative frosted glass globe that will glow and change color when the energy demand changes.  Meanwhile, here’s a video demonstration of the module in action:

 

I recently setup a wireless front door security camera to watch and notify of any visitors to our front porch.  During the holidays, there’s a lot of package stealing being reported in the news.  I am prepared!  My home made system does the following:

  • uses passive infrared (PIR) to detect motion within 30 feet
  • sends a push notification of the detection to my smartphone via pushover
  • records 2 minutes of 1080p video & converts it on the fly from H264 to .mp4
  • uploads the .mp4 file over wifi to my NAS for safe keeping and later viewing
  • sends another push notification when the .mp4 file is uploaded
  • continues to watch for the next motion event to record

The camera and PIR sensor are mounted in a weatherproof enclosure and can be powered from any DC source from 7-35v.  Here are some close up pictures.  Click for larger image:

file_000 file_001 file_002 file_003

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The logic:

  • PIR motion event causes the sensor to send a 3v signal to GPIO pin 26 on the raspberry pi computer.
  • When pin 26 goes high, it is read by the “detect” function and stored in a variable.
  • The IF logic uses the variable for detection to either process video recording or return to the continuous loop.
  • The continuous loop runs every second

How to setup:

  • grab the latest copy of raspbian-jessie-lite image (no gui)
  • burn jessie lite image to MicroSD card
  • run raspi-config to set options (internationalisation, and turn the camera socket on if using a camera module – recommended)
  • log in using raspbian default pi user and install necessary packages, update, & reboot the pi:
    • sudo apt-get update
    • sudo apt-get dist-upgrade
    • sudo reboot
    • sudo apt-get install rsync wiringpi gpac htop exfat-fuse exfat-utils
  • insert a large capacity USB stick to cache video recording to & format it with exfat file system and mount to /video
    • fdisk /dev/sda (change partition to type exfat)
    • mkfs.exfat -n video /dev/sda1
    • create /video directory
    • edit /etc/fstab and set mount point for USB exfat key to /video (this ensures the USB is mounted on each boot) Your video files will process on the USB key before being uploaded by rsync (you need a NAS or server that can receive the incoming rsync stream).
  • setup wifi (/etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf)

wifi-setup

 

The loop is a simple bash loop called by /etc/rc.local and runs whenever the unit is turned on:

loop

 

The file containing the functions does all the heavy lifting:

pi-mocam

 

DIY Holiday Flickering Lights

Happy Holidays to all!  In case you are in the spirit to DIY your own window candles or make a flickering lantern/fixture, here’s a Arduino sketch I wrote that has lifelike flickering of up to 3 channels (candles).  If you only want one channel per light, just comment out the 2nd and 3rd LED lines in the LOOP code.  Here is the sketch, happy holidays!:

3-candle-flicker

Freedom to distribute is granted.


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The Busy Bee Chip

Does your employer or organization have a pushed policy that prevents you from changing your computer’s sleep/idle screen lock?  I have developed a solution, read on:

A typical computing experience without Busy Bee Chip

You’re busy throughout the day and you may have answered a 12 minute phone call from a colleague, after which you return to your computer to continue your work and find you have to log in again.  A pain in the arse for sure and if it happens several times a day, you are likely unhappy about it.  Going idle often also gives “Idle Snitches” in the office ammunition against you and you might find yourself the subject of deeper management scrutiny as a result.  Systems administrators, in an effort to improve security within the enterprise typically roll out policies that force this to occur on PCs.  The school of thought is that people forget to lock their computers when they step away and administrators use this as a solution to prevent that by removing the human element.

Installing software on a work computer is often a no-no or enough to get you fired or at least, in trouble with your IT manager.  But what if there was a hardware solution that was discreet and appeared in the Device Manager as an ordinary mouse?  I have seen and read articles on some clever mechanical tricks people use to thwart idle timeouts and some are quite clever, but again rely on some elaborate mechanical means of tricking the mouse in a way to make it think it was being moved.  Not very elegant, and aside from being noticeable, it also is not the best way.

How your day is with a Busy Bee Chip

  • No longer need to frequently log back in after going idle when you take a phone call or perform a non-computer task – saves time & hassle
  • You always appear active in monitored presence to Management, colleagues, and office snitches!
  • Easy to use; no drivers required – nothing to install, just plug Busy Bee Chip into an available USB socket – it goes to work immediately  (NOTE: Windows users – if asked to install a driver, just hit CANCEL)
  • Works on remote desktop sessions for road warriors & telecommuters (keep your mouse pointer in the center of your remote screen)
  • Not detectable by IT or Management – shows up as a standard “HID Device” (aka mouse) in Device Manager
  • Works on Windows, Mac, & Linux
  • Take short breaks without going “idle” in Skype for Business or other tools which have presence monitoring

Get your Busy Bee Chip today for just $25 dollars!   Shipping is free via first class post to anywhere in the USA!




 

FOR SALE

Hi, I have several items for sale.  Take a look and browse below to see if there’s something you might be interested in.  Should you be interested in any one of these items, just txt me at 508.326.1521 and make an offer.  If a price is listed herein, it is negotiable, so give it a try!   I offer local pickup for all items and should you desire to have anything shipped, I can do that at additional cost.  I accept the following payment methods:  VISA/Mastercard/Discover/Debit, Cash  (sorry checks are not accepted), or Paypal.

PLEASE NOTE:  all items have been tested and are known to function properly at the time of listing.  If you elect to ship an item, it is your responsibility to pay for insurance in addition to your applicable shipping fees.  Since many of these items are used, but in excellent condition, I recommend insured carriage.  30 day warranty is offered on all items sans shipping fees.  All items are in excellent condition unless otherwise stated.

 

  1. Kodi Media Center (Set Top Box) – Can also be used as light duty computer for Facebook/email, etc.  Asking $150 each.  Price is for base unit and power supply only – bring your own Keyboard/Mouse/Screen.   Two types shown below – I have 2 units (one each).  Click thumbnails for full size image: Photo-2016-07-05-20-05-23_1860Photo-2016-07-05-20-05-37_1861Photo-2016-07-05-20-05-49_1862 Photo-2016-07-05-20-07-43_1866Photo-2016-07-05-20-07-28_1865
  2. Complete Sirius Starmate docking boom box and receiver – this is a complete package.   I’m asking $200 for the entire setup.  This is everything you need to enjoy satellite radio anywhere.  Photo-2016-07-05-20-10-27_1868 Photo-2016-07-05-20-10-31_1869 Photo-2016-07-05-20-10-49_1870 Photo-2016-07-05-20-11-04_1871
  3. Complete Sony PS3 Gaming/Blu Ray Console – Asking $200 for all.   Photo-2016-07-05-20-15-25_1872
  4. Roku Soundbridge Internet Radio Streamer with remote.  Has analog and digital outputs, Ethernet and WiFi connectivity – SOLDPhoto-2016-07-05-20-17-25_1873 Photo-2016-07-05-20-17-48_1874
  5. Linksys E1200 router with DD-WRT opensource firmware on it – $10.00   Photo-2016-07-05-20-18-34_1875 Photo-2016-07-05-20-18-44_1876 Photo-2016-07-05-20-18-57_1877
  6. Cisco 1812 Branch Office Router IOS v. 12.4 – asking $40.00 Photo-2016-07-05-20-20-09_1878 Photo-2016-07-05-20-20-28_1879
  7. Cisco 3750 stackable managed Switch – 48 100mbps ports, 4 1gbps SFP ports.   asking $125 each (I have 2).  These are NON-PoE   Photo-2016-07-05-20-21-50_1880 Photo-2016-07-05-20-22-01_1881
  8. Motorola 2 CH VHF 20 watt Transceiver  – will program to HAM band and I will program your channels for free.  Includes PL259 adaptor & OEM Microphone – SOLD   Photo-2016-07-05-20-23-37_1882 Photo-2016-07-05-20-23-51_1883
  9. Motorola UHF 16 CH 25 watt Transceiver – Will program to HAM band and I will program your channels for free.   Includes OEM Microphone – Asking $35  Photo-2016-07-05-20-24-55_1884 Photo-2016-07-05-20-25-12_1885 Photo-2016-07-05-20-25-32_1886
  10. Ammo Can D-Star Hotspot – this is a complete turn-key 5 watt package – asking $550.  It is carefully designed and is a real unique piece of field gear.  I’m also including the T-Mobile 4G Rocket modem! Ammo Can Hotspot Hotspot Internals
  11. Motorola 900MHz Transceiver – SOLD   Photo-2016-07-05-20-26-50_1887 Photo-2016-07-05-20-27-14_1888
  12. Yaesu FT-2600 2 Meter VHF Transceiver with Manual – SOLD  Photo-2016-07-05-20-28-16_1889
  13. Pentium D desktop computer with hard drive array controller, drives, green cold cathode case lighting, dual Intel gb NICs.  Will run Windows 7 but has Linux onboard.   – Asking $80  Photo-2016-07-05-20-29-59_1890 Photo-2016-07-05-20-30-55_1891 Photo-2016-07-05-20-31-49_1892 Photo-2016-07-05-20-32-04_1893
  14. Home Theater PC – this beauty was built by me a few years back to build a Myth TV DVR unit and was awesome for recording off the air programs.  You could easily install Win 7 on it and run Windows Media Center or Myth on Linux.   Has HDMI output for sound and video connection to your entertainment center.  I modded the case and installed 3 blue lit fans for effect and cooling.  Looks pretty cool with blue light spilling out of the case.   Has DVD RW drive installed.  Asking $100 for the unit  You could make a really souped up home server with Kodi interface.  Photo-2016-07-05-20-36-43_1897 Photo-2016-07-05-20-36-49_1898 Photo-2016-07-05-20-37-01_1899 Photo-2016-07-05-20-37-12_1900 Photo-2016-07-05-20-37-24_1901
  15. Roku 2 XS Streaming Player, has Angry Birds game – SOLD  Photo-2016-07-05-20-38-16_1902 Photo-2016-07-05-20-39-03_1903 Photo-2016-07-05-20-39-22_1904
  16. Plasma lamp – asking $5  Photo-2016-07-05-20-42-43_1905
  17. Dell Latitude D830 Intel Centrino laptop (has serial port, WiFi, DVD, and Audio!) – asking $90  Photo-2016-07-05-21-01-15_1906 Photo-2016-07-05-21-01-30_1907 Photo-2016-07-05-21-01-40_1908 Photo-2016-07-05-21-01-50_1909 Photo-2016-07-05-21-02-13_1910 Photo-2016-07-05-21-02-28_1911 Photo-2016-07-05-21-02-51_1912
  18. Internet Labs DVAP D-Star hotspot – (missing stub antenna, add your own) – asking $200  Photo-2016-07-06-22-16-17_1914
  19. Nokia Lumia dual SIM phone – NEW – SOLD   Photo-2016-07-06-22-19-06_1915